Destination | Goldfield, Nevada

Nothing Wrong With Splitting One Trip Into Three Epic Rides

Story & Photos By: Betsy Fessler

Keeping a log with possible ride destinations is something that I’ve learned to do over the years. When the time comes to ride and I pinpoint the direction I’d like to go for a new adventure, it is what I refer to.  That is exactly what I did for Memorial Day weekend.  The destination that I came up with was Goldfield Nevada.

Goldfield Nevada is touted as the World’s Greatest Gold Camp.  Gold and silver were both mined there, and from 1906-1910, Goldfield was the largest city in Nevada.  It had fancy hotels, bars, restaurants, and railroads.

Today Goldfield’s population is only a few hundred people.  There is a restaurant and bar, and several gift shops. There are hundreds of miles of trails offering every type of terrain.   However, there is no gas, parts or groceries for 30 miles.  The nearest towns for supplies are Tonopah, Beatty, or Big Pine.

I made reservations at Clarks Custom Camp (www.clarkscustomcampllc.com).  It is a small RV park located on the south side of town.  The owner, Georgia, designed it with long rigs in mind. However, there are no shade trees, so bring your own shade if needed.

I spent time throughout the next few months researching rides that would be fun, scenic, and educational.  The Nevada Test and Training Range (home to Area 51) is east of Goldfield, so we didn’t go in that direction.  I did discover that the only lithium mine in the country is located nearby in the town of Silver Peak.   That sounded interesting.  I also wanted to visit the nearby town of Tonopah.  Goldfield itself is its own destination, so I planned an entire day just exploring it.

We travelled about 7 hours before arriving at Clarks Custom Camp.  Georgia was there and checked us in personally.  We talked for a long time about our plans, and made suggestions for things to see during our visit.  She gave me a nice walking tour booklet of Goldfield if we had time, and even made a phone call to make sure one of the places we were visiting was open.  She even invited us all to a party happening at the Mozart Tavern.

I walked back to our RV and immediately tuned into Goldfield’s radio station 89.1, “The Voice of the Old West.”  We listened to it the entire time we were there.  It has funny commercials and public announcements, and a huge variety of music.  One night I listened to a whole program about the history of the old surf music that began in the 1950’s.

The next day, we took a 140 mile ride to Silver Peak and the surrounding area.  We started by crossing the freeway and driving past the cemetery.  Quickly thereafter we were cruising in canyons and rolling hills among Pinion Pines and Joshua Trees.  I didn’t know that Joshuas existed anywhere other than in the desert of Southern California.  Not only are there Joshuas in Nevada, but they are plentiful, healthy and thriving.

Before arriving in Silver Peak, we drove along evaporation ponds where lithium is extracted.  Cruising through the town was interesting, as there is old mining equipment everywhere, seemingly frozen in time.  We then found the only public business in town.  It is a bar called Old School.  We hoped to have lunch there but it was not open yet.  So we continued our ride into the mountains above Silver Peak.

We stopped and ate lunch on the top of Coyote Summit, where we were treated to a clear view of Silver Peak and its surroundings.  My tablet then guided us down Argentite Canyon.  It is striking with tall ragged rock formations and dense vegetation.  Surprisingly, it looked like not many people travel through it.

We finally hit the valley floor, and drove to the ghost town of Nivloc.  Nivloc is special because there are still buildings, mine equipment, and a trestle bridge there to see.

During our drive back we encountered several groups of burros and horses. The burros are decedents of ones that miners released to the desert after going bust.  We also stopped at the Goldfield Cemetery and successfully found the Paste Eater’s Grave.  I don’t know if there was someone who really died of eating too much library paste, but it was fun to locate.

That night we happened to see the Starlink satellites.  They resembled a bright string of silver beads floating through the black sky.  It was eerie and cool at the same time.  There are websites available to see what optimal viewing times are.  We use www.findstarlink.com.

Our second ride was north to Tonopah where we were lucky enough to catch the annual Jim Butler Days.  All of us were hungry, so we stopped and had really good BBQ at the Tonopah Brewing Company.  Afterward, we looked around the festival, then drove up to the Tonopah Historic Mining Park, the site of one of Nevada’s most profitable gold and silver discoveries at the turn of the 20th century.  We were able to walk around to see all of the restored buildings and equipment. We then found the visitor center where we spoke to a docent and learned about how ore is processed.

Our drive back to Goldfield was on the opposite side of the highway, where we traveled through Paymaster Canyon.  Before arriving back to camp, a stop at Gemfield was imperative.

Gemfield is a private mining claim that is open to the public.  There are several different types of chalcedony that are mined there.  The owners just ask that you weigh and pay at the self-pay box located at the entrance.

We attended the party at the Mozart Tavern after dinner that night.  Georgia was there and invited us in.  She introduced us to the owner, Jenna, who serves a mean margarita!  The joint was filled with colorful locals, all from different places and backgrounds.

With only one day remaining, we began our Goldfield tour by driving our UTVs to the Dinky Diner for breakfast.  Everyone really enjoyed their meals.  We then suited up and headed to the International Car Forest.  I’d seen photos before, but the art installations are more vivid in person.  We drove around looking at all of the differently painted cars, some of them more nicely painted than others.

A big bobcat ran across our trail on the way to Diamondfield Gulch.  It is there that a guy named Ron Matheny constructed an old western town.  Ron wasn’t there when we arrived, so we didn’t stay long.  Continuing on, we drove to see some of the countless mines on the outskirts of town.

Back into town we visited the Santa Fe Saloon – the second oldest bar in Nevada. 

Unfortunately it was closed.  But across the street is the old railroad yard.  We walked around rail cars, machinery and car parts.  It was a junker’s paradise!  We also visited the gift shops in town, the old Goldfield High School, and the famously haunted Goldfield Hotel before returning to camp to load up for home.

We had comfortable accommodations and our rides were filled with beautiful surroundings, wildlife and adventure.  Surprisingly, we encountered only a few other riders the whole weekend.  Georgia and everyone else we met in Goldfield were very nice, and went out of their way to make sure we had a good weekend.  Make plans to visit.  You’ll surely be greeted with the same hospitality.  Goldfield truly is a hidden off-road treasure, waiting for new visitors to discover its many trails and rich history.