Exploring The Incredible Sights Of The San Rafael Swell
Story & Photos By: Betsy Fessler
Last year we were itching to ride in Utah, so we decided to plan a trip in mid-September hoping to catch the fall colors, and also because it would be cool enough to bring our pets along for the ride. I am our group’s trip planner, and already having been to Moab, I wanted to go somewhere different. So, I challenged myself to find a place that is equally awesome, but not as well-known. The San Rafael Swell, a.k.a. The Swell, came up in my internet search, and after looking at just a few photos, I quickly decided that The Swell was our next must-see destination.
The San Rafael Swell is located in eastern central Utah, and is almost a million acres in size with seemingly endless miles of trails. There are no services at The Swell, as the closest town for gas and supplies is Green River, located about 30 miles east. Keep that in mind and plan accordingly should you pay The Swell a visit.
By geologic definition, the San Rafael Swell is an enormous dome of rock that was pushed up from the earth millions of years ago. Through time, this dome has been eroded by geological forces, and like much of Utah, colorful and majestic cliffs, gorges, buttes, and canyons remain for outdoor enthusiasts of all kinds to explore today.
The Swell was once populated by Indians, who left behind many vividly colored art panels. Some of these pictographs date back thousands of years, and are known to be some of the best representations of ancient art in the world today. The Swell also has some of the most beautiful and technical slot canyons in the world. Flowing through the area is the San Rafael River, providing opportunity for watersports in addition to the off-roading.
Most of us in our off-road group have long rigs, so camping can be a challenge. I needed to find a camp site to accommodate all of us, so I called the BLM office in Price, Utah for help. They sent me a map, hand-marked with several camping possibilities. I chose a central and easily accessible dry camping area north of I-70 and the Temple Mountain Road exit.
Next was to plan our rides. I found a new website, https://www.trailsoffroad.com/, with GPS tracks for many different areas including The Swell, and the tracks are uploaded by off-roaders. I also found GPS coordinates for over 40 places of interest. After months of careful planning, the time for our trip finally came. After two days on the highway, we all arrived safely, ready for the 5 days of camping.
Eager to ride, we started at Buckhorn Draw. Buckhorn Draw is an easy graded dirt road, treated to keep dust down. Its tall canyon walls gently guided us through miles of enjoyable scenery. We checked out a dinosaur print that is millions of years old. We also stopped to see the Buckhorn Wash Pictograph Panel. The well-preserved images there are believed to be of shaman and animal spirit guides.
We continued our outing with a visit to the vast and picturesque Wedge Overlook (also referred to as the Little Grand Canyon). While eating lunch there, a van from a local wildlife center pulled up. Staff got out and unloaded a large crate. They proceeded to release a two-year-old eagle that had been hit by a truck and was rehabilitated by their facility. It was a memorable moment.
Another adventure took us to the south side of Highway 70. We crossed under at Exit 131 and drove our UTVs south to Temple Mountain—a prominent landmark on the south end of The Swell. We had lunch in the shade of Temple Mountain, and then geared up again to travel through North Temple Wash to the Temple Mountain Wash Pictograph Panel. While returning, we looped back to the historic Swasey’s Cabin, Joe’s Office, and The Icebox.
The next day, we headed west and visited Dutchman’s Arch. Dropping into the beautiful and popular Eagle Canyon, our next destination was the famous Eagle Canyon Arch. We continued, driving under the arched Eagle Canyon Bridge, situated almost 300 feet above the canyon floor.
Changing direction, we passed Family Butte, and ate our lunch at the Dirty Devil Mine which mined uranium in the 1950’s. But that wasn’t all! Newly refreshed, we drove part of the Red Canyon Loop, where we stopped at the Lucky Strike Mine. We saw Hondu Arch, and then backtracked to camp. It was a 95 mile day of unforgettable sights!
We couldn’t leave without riding the notorious Black Dragon Wash trail. Black Dragon Wash is a beautiful ride that surrounds you with vibrant red canyon walls. As the name suggests, a well-known art panel is there where, among many other images is an image resembling a black dragon.
With only one more day, everyone wanted to see Goblin Valley State Park. It was almost a 100 mile trip, but well worth it. We arrived and paid our $15 gate fee. Thankfully we are all street legal, or we wouldn’t have been allowed in.
Goblin Valley, located outside of The Swell’s southern end, is a valley full of vividly colored sandstone shapes extending from the floor. We learned from interpretive signs that the shapes are eroded deposits of a former ancient sea bed. It was fascinating walking among them, knowing that we were in what was once the bottom of an ocean.
San Rafael Swell far exceeded our expectations. Its varied terrain, brilliant colors and beauty enticed us to hit the trail early each morning. During our rides, we were anxious to see what was around every corner. In 5 days, we rode over 500 miles and I took almost 300 photographs!
If I muttered the word, our group would be back to The Swell in a quick minute to find what other adventures it holds. If you are seeking the splendor of Utah but are looking for a destination less known, consider the San Rafael Swell. You will have an epic trip, full of experiences and memories to last a lifetime.
For more information and maps of The Swell, contact the Price field office of the BLM at 435-636-3600. I also purchased the National Geographic map on Amazon, and you can find it here.
