The Land Before Time
A Journey of Generations through Southern Utah’s Natural History
Words & Photos: Logan Gallagher
Southern Utah’s red rock landscapes hide more than just breathtaking vistas. They also conceal a prehistoric tapestry of dinosaurs, a testament to an ancient era waiting to be unveiled. Warner Valley is one of the most interesting parts of Southern Utah, considering its history. From the Natives that lived in the area – long before they were invaded by strange foreign tribes – to times before them when giant animals grazed the earth, there are remnants of history all over Warner Valley.
Living near St. George for quite some time, Pat Gallagher has discovered evidence of this region’s storied past over the years. He had roamed these beautiful desert landscapes on his days off, and continues to explore well into retirement. But with his recent purchase of Kawasaki’s Teryx KRX 4 1000, he not only can venture into the wild with ease, but he can go farther than ever. Whether it’s a gentle Sunday cruise or a full expedition with friends, this turned out to be just the right purchase for him. So, he wanted to share this newfound joy with the next (next) generation in his family.
Over the Thanksgiving holidays, Pat’s grandsons, Nolan and Luc, visited their grandfather from out of State. He thought it fitting to take them out in search of local artifacts and teach them – what he could – about what our ancestors had left behind. Considering Kawasaki’s performance side-by-side, the “Teryx”, is named after Archaeopteryx lithographica, the first reptile to develop feathers for flight, Pat realized how apropos it would be to take his grandsons in that UTV on a hunt for dinosaur tracks. Bonus points if they could find a few of the many petroglyph sites in the area.
Pat packed lunch and refreshing soda pops for a fun-filled morning ride. The young brothers were visibly eager to hop in Grandpa’s freshly purchased Teryx, and together, they set off down the dusty path ahead. First on the list was the Bear Clan Petroglyphs overlooking the town of St. George. Access to this site is easy when coming from Warner Valley Road. Traveling over sand and rocky terrain up to the mesa’s edge, the kiddos were even more excited to see what Grandpa had brought them out to see.
A quick walk away from the Kawasaki, through the massive boulders, led them to a rock formation resembling an eagle’s beak. The overhanging crag bore ancient drawings dating back to approximately 13,000 to 15,000 years old. The Native people seem to be telling stories of their lives and what they experienced in their particular eras many centuries ago. Spirituality could also be probable subject matter for the representations.
According to Pat, the four-limbed symbol and spiral refer to the evolution of a rising human population in the area. Even back then, it was a growing settlement for humans, who indelibly left their mark on those surroundings. The paw surprisingly signifies bear tracks, which is a curious addition to the art, considering the barren nature visible in all directions. A desert is hardly a suitable environment for large mammals, let alone those covered in thick fur coats.
These simple but powerful pictures capture the imagination and can make anyone stare at them in wonder, pondering what the world was really like at that time. A more modern addition to this spot is its geocache, which seems fitting, considering that it has been a place for the Natives to document who was in the area and what was going on there. Nolan and Luc jotted their names down in the geocache and the date they were here, building their relationship with this part of the desert the same way as people once did thousands of years ago.
After enjoying the breathtaking view of this first spot, they climbed back the side-by-side to see what else Grandpa had in store. Further south down Warner Valley Road, they arrived at Fort Pierce, a place a bit more familiar to our modern times. Located along the Fort Pierce Wash, this is a great spot to stretch your legs or set up a basecamp for the day. A quick walk up the trailhead is all that’s left of the fort, first built by about 20 Mormon militia in 1865 during the Black Hawk War.
Made almost entirely with resources from the wash, the compound spanned about 42 feet long and 22 feet across. The structure’s interior was divided into two rooms. Small protruding rectangular rooms were added to the northwest and southeast wall, and ten vertical firing slits or gun ports were constructed near the tops of the walls.
This was the initial period when Mormon settlers went south from Salt Lake and chose their new home. However, the Ute and Navajo tribes – still occupying and ultimately fighting for this land – were continually raiding the Caucasian intruders, stealing livestock and horses, among other things. In five years, about 70 immigrants were killed during these incidents, yet no armed conflicts are known to have taken place at Fort Pierce. The guard post was manned, at least intermittently, from 1866 until 1873, until peace negotiations and the U.S. Army stepped in, officially ending the Black Hawk War.
Generously offering far more than merely ruins, somewhere along the river bed, there were more petroglyphs to observe before leaving the site. And that marked the crescendo of the trip. A journey much deeper into life’s extensive timeline, when giants roamed the earth, what Nolan and Luc were most excited about was looking for dinosaur tracks which their Grandpa had told them about. Saddling back up in the Kawi, the three of them exited the fort and returned to dry, gritty Warner Valley Road. They cranked up the music – indulging in the stock sound system – while enjoying the autumn air flowing through the cabin. Views of the southwest mesas made of red sandstone and volcanic rock set a stunning scene.
They reached the fork at Dinosaur Tracks Trail and rolled into the canyon to a dead end marking the trailhead parking lot. After which they walked down a short half-mile, arriving at a special spot where a magical kingdom of monsters once ruled – so far gone, they are at best fantasies for us. Almost 190 million years ago, in the Lower Jurassic age (its first geological epoch), this valley had been an oasis for dinosaurs and mammals alike, providing a watering hole and refuge for every type of animal that could reach it.
The tracks they left behind let you see for yourself that these juggernauts used to eat-sleep-live in this exact location. In the wash, not far from the UTV, was a well-preserved track site of the Megapnosaurus. Millions of years ago, right below the shelf of Sand Hollow State Park, this was where the water used to be which let these amazing creatures thrive. And the arid wasteland that stands in its place today is evidence that life is fragile, connected significantly from the smallest amoeba to the largest beast and the environment which hosts them all.
Needless to say, Nolan and Luc were ecstatic. This was their first time seeing actual, tangible proof in the wild that dinosaurs really did exist on this planet – bringing their fantasies to life. The boys were even in more awe when they were able to witness it for themselves, up-close and personal. But it’s hard to say who was more ecstatic. Their Grandfather was so happy, maybe even happier than the kiddos, to share this experience with them and see these young explorers find success on their hunt for knowledge. At such great distances apart, this multi-stop adventure wouldn’t have been possible had he not purchased his trusty KRX 4 – confirmation alone that he had bought the right tool for his family.
This journey, and the many amazing, informative moments which accompany it, aren’t exclusive to Pat and his family. Southern Utah invites everyone to come and see all these unique sites for yourselves, just like these young adventurers. Warner Valley is a fantastic place to spend time with whomever you care for in whatever off-road vehicle you have. But any excuse to get behind the wheel of a brand-spanking-new Kawi (or an equivalent UTV) is a good excuse. And this reason – traveling through time with your loved ones to uncover earth’s epic wonders – is better than most.
