Installation into our Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo Dynamix Edition
Story By: Kyle Callen
Photos By: Brandon Bunch
When riding down the trail or in the open desert, communication between the driver, passengers and other UTVs is key. Whether the navigator needs to get you back on course, or you have lost the group at a turn, being able to communicate to get back on track will ensure that you have a fun and safe ride. Over the years, PCI Race Radios has been a leader in off road communications, providing the best components not only to racers, but to recreational users. PCI has supplied us with their Ultimate 4 Seat Package. It includes everything needed to cleanly install a radio and intercom in our Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo Dynamix Edition.
For a first timer going into this install, it may see a little overwhelming, but it is quite simple and can be done in the garage in a few hours. Here are a couple of tips going into this install. Lay out all of your components and tools on a workbench. It’s better to realize you are missing a tool or a necessary component now, than when you are almost done and the garage is a mess. The second tip is to plan where you will be running your wiring, making sure that the antenna wire is segregated from any power wires. I usually run the antenna wire from the radio to the A pillar and through the cage, but more about that later.
To start, remove all 4 seats and the center console by removing the 6-T40 Torx and the push pins. When removing the rear console, don’t forget to unplug the 12V power source. Next, remove the hood and the 2-T40 Torx screws holding the dash down. With a slight push toward the rear of the car, the dash will come unclipped. You can completely remove the dash but I find that it has plenty of slack in the wiring to just set it aside. Next, remove the dry box and bracket. Now that the interior is disassembled it’s on to the fun stuff. Install the radio and intercom in the supplied bracket, using the supplied hardware. If you want your Push To Talk buttons in the bracket, this is the time to install them. Connect the radio to the intercom and neatly zip tie the power leads together. Remove the T40 Torx that holds the middle of the dash to the cross bar, and slide the previously assembled bracket into place and re-install the screws. Push the bottom of the bracket against the backside of the dash (where the opening of the drybox used to reside) so that it fits tightly with no gaps; here is where an extra set of hands or C clamps come in handy. Hold or clamp the bracket in the desired location while you mark and drill the holes in the plastic of the dash. Then install and tighten the supplied hardware through the plastic and the bottom of the bracket.
There are many options when it comes to your headset jack location. Flush mount sockets in the center console are a simple solution, but we prefer to run them through the shoulder harness hole in the seat back so that the connection is easy to find and the headset cord doesn’t run across your body. A quick tip, wrap a piece of colored tape around each side of the driver’s cord and 2 pieces of tape around the passenger cord. This will ensure that they get plugged into the correct ports on the intercom after you have run the cables through the car. Run the left cables down the sill, popping the driver’s cable out at the B pillar and the left rear passenger cable out at the C pillar. Run them up the cage tube and across the harness bar where they will go through the seat. Do the same for the passenger side making sure the wiring is tightly secured. The rear of the intercom is clearly marked so knowing where to plug everything in is simple. Plug in the supplied power wire to the radio and intercom. These wires will need to be ran through the grommet in the front firewall, following the existing wiring harness down the center console and to the battery. Make sure that all of the wires are properly secured and not rubbing on any sharp edges. It’s also very important that the power wires go directly to the battery and not to the bus bar under the hood. PCI has built in the fuses to the wiring harness, that is one less thing you have to worry about. Do not make a connection to the battery yet.
Running the antenna is quite simple as long as you remember to keep it away from any power cables. Simply run the antenna cable along the outside of the cage using zip ties to secure it in place. For those with a metal roof, you will need to drill a ⅜ hole in the desired location to bolt the antenna base through. Make sure that the base is nice and snug. For those with no roof or canvas, we really like the antenna mounts from Axia Alloy. They can be bought for any tube size and give you a solid base to mount the antenna from. Connect the other end of the antenna to the radio. Make sure the mast is screwed on snuggly before powering up the system. Once you have connected the system to battery power, check to make sure that the Push To Talk buttons key up the radio. Next you will want to set your squelch. With the headset plugged in, talk into the mic. There is a fine balance of not enough to too much squelch, so you will need to figure out what works best for you. If the system was installed correctly, you should be able to hear yourself in the headset or clearly be able to talk to someone in the other seat. Now install the dash and interior in reverse order, don’t forget to plug in the 12v power source in the rear console and you are ready to hit the trail with great communication between you and all your friends.
